Shocking Life

Book Description

“She knew everyone from Paris to Hollywood, collaborated with the Surrealists, and left her indelible mark on the world of fashion.” —Vogue

“She slapped Paris. She smacked it. She tortured it. She bewitched it. And it fell madly in love with her.”— Yves Saint Laurent

“A dress from Schiaparelli ranks like a modern canvas.”—Janet Flanner, The New Yorker

Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) was one of the leading fashion designers of the 1920s, '30s, and '40s. Her fascinating autobiography, first published in 1954, charts her rise from a rat-infested apartment in Rome, to success in fashion, through the war years when she worked for the American Red Cross, to her eventual role as designer to the stars.

Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli

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Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli
Shocked
A Knock-Out !
FASHIONISTA MUST OF 2003
Worthy of my coffee table!

Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli
Dilys E. Blum
Manufacturer: Yale University Press
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

General | Fashion | Arts & Photography | Subjects | Books

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ASIN: 0300100663

Amazon.com

If you're a fashionista who's not a babe, you look for clothes that create attention all by themselves. That was the secret of Elsa Schiaparelli, the Italian designer who gave women unusual textures, eccentric patterns and surprising shapes influenced by the Surrealist artists in her circle. In Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli--a winking reference to her most famous perfume as well as to her designing audacity--Dilys E. Blum celebrates the couturiere whose achievements have long been eclipsed by her rival, Coco Chanel. A frustrated sculptor, Schiaparelli invested many of her garments of the 1930s and '40s with an architectural quality, from aerodynamic, back-swept bustles and overskirts dramatically curved back over themselves to stiff, fan-shaped peplums. She created a hat in the shape of an upside-down shoe, made comfy leopard-skin booties, and incorporated such novelties as monkey fur and Rhodophane, a transparent man-made fabric. Her clothes were worn by Mae West and heiress Millicent Rogers, by Helena Rubenstein and French film star Arletty. At her most eccentric, inspired by the artist Man Ray, Schiaparelli produced suede gloves with red snakeskin fingernails. At her most practical, she designed a daring (in 1931) silk tennis costume with a divided skirt. More than 300 stunning photographs, both vintage and contemporary, and a detailed yet lively text made this book a must for anyone interested in the history of fashion. A coordinated exhibition of the same title is at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, through Jan. 4, 2004, before traveling to Paris. --Cathy Curtis

Customer Reviews:

Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli.......2005-04-21

This is one of the best books about a prominent fashion designer.
Elsa Schiaparelli's work is intelligently analyzed and the book is beautifully illustrated with color and black and white photographs of her designs as well as her domestic and retail interiors. Her collaborative work with artists including Dali and Cocteau is also covered, with photographs of the fruits of their work (eg Surrealistic designs for prints and embroidery).
Six of Schiaparelli's most important collections are covered in detail, including the Circus, Lucky Stars and Music in the Air collections.
Schiaparelli's influence on other designers is fascinating to observe. Most notably on the work of Yves Saint-Laurent in the eighties (strong colors, opulent embroidery) and on John Galliano in more recent years (newspaper prints, trompe l'oeil draping)
This book is a must for all students of fashion design and fashion history.

Shocked.......2004-06-19

Very pretty and informative book about Schiaparelli's design. Reading this book I felt like during my fashion design practise at PPUPPY couture house - charming, excited and in love with fashion.

A Knock-Out !.......2004-04-05

A theatrical studio photo by George Hoyningen-Huene graces the cover of Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli. Elsa Schiaparelli, the subject of the black and white photo, wears a white gown, feather boa, and an armload of pearls. Shocking pink type announces to the reader that Shocking! Is not an ordinary book about an ordinary fashion designer.
Shocking! documents the recent exhibition of Schiaparelli's designs at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Seen as historical artifacts, her work is as inspirational as it is quirky. Written by Dilys E. Blum Curator of Costume and Textiles at the Philadelphia Museum of Art Shocking! is thoughtful and scholarly. Schiaparelli was an innovative and a visionary fashion designer prolific from the late 1920's to the mid 50's. Known for her associations with artists such as Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, Man Ray, Marcel Duchamp, she produced practical clothing as well as surreal masterpieces such as a shoe hat, lobster dress, and gloves with appliquéd fingernails. Some of her innovations which we take for granted include: externally placed zippers, synthetic fabrics, bright colors especially shocking pink, odd mixes of materials together, and architectural silhouettes.
Packed with more than 300 modern and archival of photos of her clothes there is a never-ending source of vibrant visual stimulation within the pages of Shocking! As a side bar for interior design purists, her showrooms were designed by Jean-Michel Frank and there are interesting archival photos of his work. For those interested in fashion history this book is a must have.

FASHIONISTA MUST OF 2003.......2004-01-17

This is a fabulous book, beautifully illustrated and written with much care and research. Schiaparelli is a neglected figure compared with her contemporary and great rival, Coco Chanel, but this book should go a long way towards redressing that balSance.

Worthy of my coffee table!.......2003-11-12

This book is filled with beautiful photographs from the Philadelphia Museum of Art's exhibit. If you can't get to the museum, don't worry. The exhibit can come to you. Well worth the reasonable price for so many photos and sketches. Inspiring for anyone who considers sewing an art form. Schiaperelli was truly an artist and a master of her craft. She created innovative and eccentric designs, while celebrating the female figure and without compromising form and function. I couldn't be happier with this book.

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Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli
Dilys E. Blum
Manufacturer: Yale University Press
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback
ASIN: B000OSO0QI

Book Description

After having observed the operations of reconstructive surgery and aesthetic surgery, acclaimed figurative painter Jenny Saville was eager to express the violence and anesthetized pain of this experience in her own work. She and fashion photographer Glenn Luchford thus began an artistic collaboration that captures the full range of color, tonality, and topography of live flesh, in large photographic tableaux that portray Saville's own body. Distortions confront and coerce the viewer into an examination of his or her own body and the grotesqueries and beauties inherent within; the images likewise recall biological specimens preserved, disembodied, and disfigured. The collusion of the art and fashion worlds has produced many hybrids in recent years, yet none perhaps none as intensely striking as this series.

Customer Reviews:

An exercise in corporeal exploration.......2005-02-09

For those who are in awe of the majestic paintings of large nude women by Jenny Saville, this catalogue from an exhibition at Gagosian Gallery in 2002 may be a disappointment. Saville used her own corpulent body pressed against glass that distorts the expected round planes into flat surfaces. The large photographs were done in tandem with photographer Glen Luchford and they are impressive just for the size alone. But the works don't hold interest the way the paintings with Saville's sculptural use of paint on canvas do.

The book is well presented in an oversize scale to echo the size of the photographs. Katherine Dunn adds an essay that is more about Saville and her inspirations than it is about art history - very conversational and enlightening. Again, if you are expecting to see Saville's paintings here then look further. She is an important and gifted artist. Grady Harp, February 2005

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Art Directors' Index to Photographers 16/Americas, Asia, Australasia (Art Directors' Index to Photographers)

Manufacturer: Rotovision
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover

General | Photography | Arts & Photography | Subjects | Books
ASIN: 0823060853

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Art Directors' Index to Photographers 16: Americas, Asia, Australasia.

Manufacturer: 0
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Hardcover
ASIN: B000IBM6TO

Book Description

The Plot examines the outrageous fabrication of The Protocols of the Elders of Zion, which purports to be the actual blueprint by Jewish leaders to take over the world. Hatched as an anti-Semitic plot by the tsar's secret police to deflect widespread criticism of the government, the Protocols, first published in 1905, succeeded beyond the propagandistic ambitions of its originators; the lie became an internationally accepted truth. Presenting a pageant of historical figures including Tsar Nicholas II, Henry Ford, and Adolf Hitler, Eisner exposes the twisted history of the Protocols from nineteenth-century Russia to modern-day Klan members to Islamic fundamentalists. The Plot unravels one of the most devastating hoaxes of the twentieth century.

Book Description

The world suffers from an insidious malaise of ill-advised, uncouth behavior. In the name of liberty, the rules of decorum and courtesy have been cast aside like yesterdayÂ's coffee groundsÂ…or empty mayonnaise jarsÂ…or maybe washed-up ballplayers. In their ensuing ignorance, the masses are desperate to learn of things civil and considerate. Accordingly, what the world needs now is a set of quick-start instructions on refined behavior. We need an etiquette rebootÂ—and a magnanimous leader.

Auspiciously, Mizencole Nut has come to our aid. And he is the man for the task. Cultivated comportment comes naturally to him. It is in his blood. He can tie a Windsor knot in the dark with one hand strapped to a bedpost. He never buttons the wrong holes in his shirts, and he neverÂ—everÂ—puts his shoes on the wrong feet. You can trust Mizencole Nut. He delivers the answers you need to leave barbarism behind. Read him in confidence and rest assured that, although Refined Behavior may not make you a culture expert overnight, delusional lunacy is all but guaranteed in one readingÂ…two at most.

Customer Reviews:

A clever, if slightly twisted, read.......2004-08-24

This is certainly not the typical fare one would expect to find me recommending, but I just can't help myself. There are no deep, theological truths here, just practical advice for living a more refined life. Mizencole Nut--a name you should know--writes with an inimitable style that will have you laughing and crying, begging him to stop.

Nut has not held back, as some accused in his previous works. He has unleashed his wisdom on a world that can scarcely take it in. Read it carefully, with pen in hand. Take notes, highlight, dog-ear the pages. Do what you must, but be careful to apply what you learn.

Book Description

This text offers a clear and succinct overview of a central debate in the study of the media, drawing together a wide range of theoretical and research-based material from both sides of the Atlantic. Written with a light touch and taking a level-headed approach to competing theories and claims, it is accessibly organized around the three central processes in mass communication - production, representation and reception - and provides comprehensive coverage of all the main topics relevant to the thorny issue of media power.

Book Description

From a period of outstanding and innovative programmes, "British Television Drama in the 1980s" examines the major productions, including: Talking Heads; Brookside; Yes, Prime Minister; Inspector Morse; Edge of Darkness; Boys from the Blackstuff; Tumbledown; The Falklands Play; Four Days in July; Tutti Frutti; The Jewel in the Crown; The Life and Loves of a She-Devil; and The Singing Detective.

Book Description

Adoption is a profound experience that touches upon universal themes of abandonment, identity, sexuality, parenthood, and the sense of belonging. The authors utilize family systems theory to construct a practical treatment approach for working with families on the myriad issues and interrelationships that surround adoption. The model described here is broadly inclusive of all families linked by ``the adoption triangle'\m-\birth parents, adoptive families, and adoptees\m-\and it offers practical guidance for implementing differential treatment and effective clinical procedures on their behalf.

Book Description

In 1932, 60 percent of Washington State voters approved a state income tax. Within less than a year, the measure was struck down as unconstitutional by the state supreme court. Over half a century later, Washington remains one of only eight states without a state income tax. Yet Washingtonís conflicts and solutions were by no means unique.

Through an examination of how Washingtonians reacted to federal tax policy, responded to national debates over tax issues, and opted for particular forms of taxation for themselves and their property, Phil Roberts elucidates the larger patterns of evolving tax policy in the United States. A Penny for the Governor, a Dollar for Uncle Sam explores the complex mix of factors underlying tax decisions and demonstrates how taxation politics influenced (and were influenced by) broader economic and cultural forces from the days of Lincoln to the New Deal. Tax systems are shaped by assumptions about economic development, social responsibility, and government influence, as well as cultural outlooks and political philosophies.

A Penny for the Governor, a Dollar for Uncle Sam demonstrates the roles of governors, legislatures, courts, and average citizens in determining how income taxes were applied or resisted in the Northwest, and the important factors of class and geography in influencing taxation politics. The public debates on the subject are revealing of the role played by urban-rural conflicts in that most fundamental of political issues: taxes -- who decides, who pays, and how much.

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Government Spending

Easy Read with Great Info

Relevant to educators as well as government

Engage Workers First, then talk about PRICE

Sounds Good, but Won't Work!

The Price of Government: Getting the Results We Need in an Age of Permanent Crisis
David Osborne , and Peter Hutchinson
Manufacturer: Perseus Books Group
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Paperback
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The Reinventor's Fieldbook: Tools for Transforming Your Government

ASIN: B000MKYKCW

Book Description

Government is broke. The 2004 federal deficit will be the highest in U.S. history. The states have suffered three years of record shortfalls. Cities, counties and school districts are laying off policemen and teachers, closing schools, and cutting services. Government leaders have patched together combinations of accounting gimmicks, on- time fixes, real cuts, and tax and fee increases to relieve the fiscal pain. But it won't go away.

Overall, American governments from the White House to City Hall are enduring their worst fiscal crisis since World War II. But this time, the crisis will be permanent. On one side are skyrocketing costs for health care, Social Security and pensions. On the other is opposition to tax increases. In the face of this crisis the bankrupt ideologies of left and right offer little guidance. The Price of Government does.

Whereas Reinventing Government, David Osborne's 1992 New York Times bestseller, was a manifesto for change, The Price of Government is a clear, step-by-step roadmap for change, offering concrete solutions drawn from the authors' combined thirty years of experience leading and advising public institutions. The authors begin by describing a radically different approach to budgeting-one that focuses on buying results for citizens rather than cutting or adding to last year's spending programs. They go on to show how leaders can use consolidation, competition, customer choice, and a relentless focus on results to save millions while improving public services, at all levels of government.

These ideas have been put into practice successfully from schoolhouses to statehouses and from City Hall to the Pentagon. They are built on common sense, not ideology. The Price of Government will interest everyone who is concerned with how tax dollars are spent-and how to get the results we need at a price we're willing to pay.

Customer Reviews:

Government Spending.......2007-08-03

This book offers a different approach for governments to prioritize their spending. It may not work for every body, but will provide a new way to decide where to put tax dollars to match tax payers priorities.

Easy Read with Great Info.......2007-01-10

This is a another great book written by David Osborne, with practical, yet out of the box ideas on balancing government budgets. A great process that can be emulated by public administrators to focus taxpayer dollars on the most important programs and services. It challenges administrators to go beyond hacking away at every program budget until all the programs are barely running on a shoestring and no one is getting the results that taxpayers want.

Relevant to educators as well as government.......2006-09-25

The PRICE of GOVERNMENT:
Getting the Results We Need in an Age of Permanent Fiscal Crisis

There is no doubt that money needs to be well-spent, especially when discussing money managers such as our state and national government officials. As a "customer" of this government, I'm looking for solutions, yet finding more problems. The Price of Government not only identifies those problems, but offers solutions. The premise remains the same- what are Americans willing to pay for the services that we need?

The authors review not only America's history of taxation, but introduce components from other sources. Such sources are countries where governmental systems are more effective than ours, and sometimes also citing an example of ineffectiveness followed by review and suggestion. Overall, this book is a valuable source for those who have an interest as to where their tax dollars are being spent. The authors suggest that all Americans should be more well-informed before they vote. After reading many reviews of this text, I believe the authors may wish to re-visit this idea. America wants results. There is a great deal of practical suggestions about moving toward a practical performance-based system. I believe that we are beginning to see this and use of the internet helps average citizens gain information we would not have had access to a decade ago.

What I especially enjoyed about this book was that it wasn't just shock and awe... we're going downhill heading for doom, etc. The authors state the obvious- that we've spent more than we have and there needs to be accountability for the money customers provide. I refrained from overusing the word taxpayer because the book does address ways to use these concepts in other arenas, making it a valuable tool not only for elected officials, health care and educational employees, but to business as a whole. The introduction jumps right in and offers a "prescription" to help save this sinking ship. In short, the authors compel government to "get a grip" on the problem, figure out how much taxpayers are willing to help with the problem, determine priorities and then allocate funds for those priorities until money is gone. Being in the middle of an educational administration program has exposed me to several similar texts. Often, reorganization is the focus to solve existing problems. These authors drew me in from the get-go, but the following quote sums up their philosophy well!

Native Americans have many sayings, and one of the wisest is this: "When you're riding a dead horse, the best strategy is t dismount. You don't change riders. You don't reorganize the herd. You don't put blue-ribbon commission on veterinarians. And you don't spend more money on feed. You get off and find yourself a new horse. "(Page 19)

To begin identification of the problem they look at demographics- an aging population with longer longevity and decreased population growth. In short, healthcare and social security problems have caused a deficit in the budget on a huge scale. The authors suggest budgeting for outcomes- determine what is really important, and then figure out how much it will cost and then buy it. I liked how they state to "use indicators that make sense to citizens". (Page 72) Often, schools report test scores but do not explain how they are interpreted. The authors suggest planning for outcome goals and including indicators of that success. They identify the difference between budgeting for Outcomes and performance management. The example of the child welfare agency being rewarded or punished based on child abuse cases solidifies the definite difference of the two. (Page 89)

In the consolidation chapter, the authors remind us that historically, American government reacts to a crisis through reorganization. Two examples sited are the loss of a child causing the child welfare system reform and Homeland security being developed after September 11th 2001. Reorganization is not always bad, but it not always what the organization needs either. I like how the book relates well to the educational system. Suggesting that schools be held accountable to achieve these goals set by the system would increase motivation to ensure child success. We are beginning to see this in charter school enrollment rising and some states having the option to voucher tax dollars toward private schools. The concept of "rightsizing" looks at whether or not the service is still needed, how efficiently those working in that area are doing their work and what can be done about it. If the service is still needed but time is wasted, for example completing tedious paperwork or signing time cards that the supervisor doesn't manage suggests looking at technology to streamline the work to be done.

Too often with new elected officials we saw their friends, companies and associates hired under their administration. The result was usually less than optimum effectiveness. Osborne and Hutchinson suggest competition to save the price of government from rising. Competition keeps prices low. To further stimulate effectiveness and efficiency, the authors suggest rewarding those involved. If the contractor winning the bid completes a job early and under budget, then a portion of the surplus goes back to the taxpayers while a portion goes to the workers as well. The authors claim that not only does this reward workers, but it improves morale of the workers and boosts the public faith in their government. I especially liked the suggestion they based from evidence of forgeign countries. "Shift public workers into private firms taking over the work... Require that contractors pay comparable wages and benefits..." (Page 161) These are but two examples, showing us that this could work. We could move public jobs into the private sector, without losing the quality of life they had established.

"Smarter customer service" is a chapter most of us could benefit from. It brings to light the things we too often do without question. In turn, wasting the company's money and driving costs up for customers. The example of signing time cards of people you don't personally watch was a perfect example. Yet, government needed to respond to a situation years ago in order to save money. Re-evaluate the needs of the organization. The 311 system empowered citizens while holding officials responsible for their departments. The quality must improve to improve the processes. The 311 telephone system brought performance data to a new front while keeping costs low through consolidation. By being more effective, costs are cut for departments, onto governments and maintaining if not lowering the price of government for citizens

They offer insight to many different aspects, focused on the key programs. They also offer practical suggestions and offer ways to deepen what they present, citing very good websites such as www.FirstGov.gov and www.irs.gov/efile. Systems working together will better align the system. The authors suggest in education of current employees for better efficiency as well. The focus should be on the results of the objectives, not solely the money, claiming the authors. They remind us to stay focused on the core objectives, as to not get lost in the activity. They suggest moving power into the hands of the employees, in essence creating "an organization of leaders" (page 322).

All in all, this book is not only very useful, but easy to read as well.

Engage Workers First, then talk about PRICE.......2006-04-10

Great ideas if anyone can find government workers or teachers who know anything or care about ...budgets.
Focus on getting workers engaged in the planning process first before introducing even the word BUDGET or PRICE of Government.
Also, using the terms PERMANENT and CRISIS in the same sentence does absolutely nothing except cause eyes to glaze over.

Sounds Good, but Won't Work!.......2005-12-13

The timing for this book couldn't be better - an era of skyrocketing deficits, an aging population (boosting pension outlays), inexorable increases in healthcare costs (fewer workers with health insurance, aging population), and businesses increasingly threatening to move elsewhere unless they receive tax relief.

Simply cutting budgets accomplishes little - as Osborne points out, it does nothing to improve areas retained. In addition, service recipients or proponents (usually providers) simply complain ad naseum until an opportunity to restore funding occurs (eg. tax increase or economic upturn) presents itself - thus setting the stage for the next crisis.

Osborne is also correct in pointing out that the most common budget "cures" are simply illusions - accounting gimmicks (timing "games" regarding outlays and receipts, fudging estimates, temporarily ignoring voter mandates), borrowing, and delaying maintenance.

At this point, however, Osborne goes off the track by proposing some intelligent-sounding changes in approach (eg. identify the results wanted), and proceeds to go through a lot of razzle-dazzle that simply ends up with "business as usual."

Using Washington state as an example, Osborne cites how a citizens group decided to focus on providing more early-childhood-education and implementing skill-based pay for teachers - neither a "REAL" result. During the last 30+ years innumerable education "improvement" programs have been funded, while progress has been non-existent - eg. scores by 17-year-olds on the National Assessment of Education Progress (the only unchanged large-scale test in the nation) have remained unchanged, as have drop-out rates. This, despite a more than doubling of inflation-adjusted per-pupil spending in the last 30 or so years. As for "skill-based" teacher pay, study after study has found that - after taking into account pupil differences - payment for EXISTING "skill-set" programs (teacher experience or degree levels) contribute little (only the first few years of experience) or nothing to pupil achievement. So why add another dubious dimension? If one needs any more evidence, consider the fact that most private schools only cost about half that of public schools.

Universities are another major State-level expenditure; like K-12 education, MAJOR overhaul (not rethinking budgets)is required. Since the early 1990's, professors' teaching workloads have been reduced from three classes per semester to two. Nationally, and undoubtedly in Washington also, the length of the academic year shrunk from 191 days in 1964 to only 156 in 1993. Meanwhile, only 21 cents of every funding dollar goes into the classroom - the number of non-teaching professionals (eg. counselors) has increased from 3 per instructor in 1976 to 6 in 2001. Returning to those recent productivity levels, substantially reducing admissions of the roughly half unable or unmotivated to graduate, and shortening the average 5+ years required to graduate would allow savings of about $500+ million/year in Arizona and it is assumed that similar opportunities exist in Washington.

As for healthcare, Osborne's Washington process suggested dropping coverage for low-income workers - an ACCOUNTING GIMMICK that simply transfers the costs to providers, and adding more clinics. However, what is really required is a review of incentives and other care drivers - eg. the highest-spending areas in the U.S. spend about 60% more on Medicare recipients than the lowest, despite access to care and patient outcomes being better in the low-income areas. A second problem is that healthcare providers are REWARDED for their errors - payors need to insist on adherence to quality standards. A third major problem is that care recipients have no incentives to conserve - Health Savings Accounts (allowing cashing out of any funds remaining from a set amount) do so.

Clearly Osborne's work would be more useful if it focused on outcomes - both good and bad. Associated with that should also be a discussion of benchmarking (staffing levels, compensation for staff, and benefit levels), and continuous improvement goal-setting that emphasize reducing waste and improving quality "Toyota-style" - keys to success in the private sector.

The "bottom-line" is that the focus should not be on the budget process, but on permanent reform of the biggest consumers of government funds - education and healthcare.

The Price of Government, Getting the Results We Need in an Age of Permanent Fiscal Crisis.(Book Review) : An article from: The Public Manager

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The Price of Government, Getting the Results We Need in an Age of Permanent Fiscal Crisis.(Book Review) : An article from: The Public Manager
Brian Cox
Manufacturer: Thomson Gale
ProductGroup: Book
Binding: Digital

Book Description

This digital document is an article from The Public Manager, published by Bureaucrat, Inc. on December 22, 2004. The length of the article is 703 words. The page length shown above is based on a typical 300-word page. The article is delivered in HTML format and is available in your Amazon.com Digital Locker immediately after purchase. You can view it with any web browser.

Citation Details
Title: The Price of Government, Getting the Results We Need in an Age of Permanent Fiscal Crisis.(Book Review)
Author: Brian Cox
Publication: The Public Manager (Refereed)
Date: December 22, 2004
Publisher: Bureaucrat, Inc.
Volume: 33 Issue: 3 Page: 61(1)

Article Type: Book Review

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